Used phone buying checklist: 7 free checks before you pay
Most used-phone disasters are avoidable with a number the seller has to give you anyway: the IMEI. Here is the order to run the checks in, what each one protects you from, and where to run them free.
1. Get the IMEI before you meet
Ask for it up front. A seller who will not share it before the meeting is not going to pass the checks. Dial *#06# on the phone when you meet to make sure the number matches.
2. Blacklist
Free blacklist check. Blocked means the phone will not work on most networks anywhere. Walk away, whatever the price.
3. Find My iPhone (Apple only)
Free FMI check. ON means the seller must switch it off in front of you, with their Apple ID password, before you pay.
4. SIM lock and carrier
Free SIM lock check, then the carrier check if it is locked. A locked phone is fine if it is your carrier; otherwise price in an unlock or move on.
5. Model, colour and storage
Free model check. The IMEI cannot be edited; the listing can. A '256 GB Pro' that comes back as a 64 GB base model is a common one.
6. Warranty and activation date
Warranty and activation date, both free. They tell you the phone's real age and whether Apple will still fix it.
7. Carrier finance status (US phones)
Verizon and T-Mobile checks show whether the phone is still being paid off. An unpaid phone can be blacklisted months after you buy it.
Run the checks this guide talks about
Questions people ask
In what order should I run the checks?
Blacklist first — a blocked phone ends the conversation. Then Find My iPhone, then the lock, then the rest.
How long do the checks take?
Seconds each. Seven checks fit comfortably in the time it takes the seller to find the charger.
Are these checks really free?
Yes. Every visitor gets a few free checks a day. Resellers and shops that check phones all day use an account instead.
What if the seller refuses to give the IMEI?
Do not buy the phone. There is no honest reason to withhold it.